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CAFE MINT
Cuisine:
Modern North African
Middle-Eastern Fusion
Address:
579 Crown St
Surry Hills
Phone:
(02) 9319 0848
Darlinghurst's
Fez Cafe was a legend
told many times, with owner Hugh Foster's passion for world cuisine
having settled into a profound culinary exploration of food which might
be called "Southern Mediterranean". But, as Darlinghurst lost
its eclectic, arty residents, replaced by corporate clones and wally
lawyers, Foster lost his appetite as much as Darlo lost its locals.
Foster floated as Fez faded, with a stint at Paddington's Sloanes Cafe
keeping him off the streets. Then he found his audience again. They
had moved to the back end of Surry Hills, snuggled into the terraces
around Cleveland Street. Suddenly, a little den caught his eye - the
business ailing, the space entrancing. It pays to have a mate in hospitality
design, and Hugh rang Rob Sample, the man who designed trendoid oases
Longrain and Jimmy
Liks. With a few bits of stone and offcuts of wood, Sample magically
wrought a cosy twist on the theme "African hut". If Fez is
to have its "Mini-Me", then Foster has just been Dr Frankenstein
to such a creature. Many exquisite dishes are reprised: Pomegranate
Lamb with Minted Eggplant & Lentils with Dates is sublime; Meze
Small or Large with Turkish Bread is an old Fez classic; Chickpea Salad
with Grilled Haloumi & Turkish Bread got the thumbs up from our
Sydneycafes dining buddy; while the dessert of Kuneffah: Ricotta &
Mozzarella in Shredded Pastry with Cardamom Syrup, Pistachios and Quince
(pictured top) is a special worth asking for - if Hugh has the ingredients
on hand, he'll whip it up. Another Fez fave, the Breakfast Couscous
with Yoghurt, Fruit Compote and Pistachios is revived, but it's worth
noting that Foster caters amply for Aussie palates, with Bacon &
Eggs or a Ham, Cheese & Tomato Sandwich keeping less adventurous
dining mates from being ostracised.
Further
recent Freshmag/Sydneycafes.com.au
dining reviews:
Venice Beach Restaurant Kings Cross Sydney: click Venice
Beach
Prague Czech Beer Restaurant
Kings Cross Sydney: click Prague
Yai's Thai Newtown Sydney:
click Yai
Sabatini's Restaurant Crows Nest
Sydney: click Sabatinis
Messinas Restaurant Northbridge
Perth: click
Messinas
Al Fornetto Italian Restaurant
Doubleview Perth: click Al
Fornetto
Halo Cafe Swan River Foreshore
Perth: click Halo
Universal Bar Northbridge
Perth: click Universal
Montsalvat Meeting Pot Cafe
Restaurant in Victoria: click Montsalvat
Adils Indian Cuisine in Sydney:
click Adils
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